![]() ![]() Having had a few water pumps apart (domestic, euro and asian), the common failure point is usually the gland. The bearings do not in any way make contact with the coolant. Just want to clear up some misconceptions. It just makes good sense to do it with the timing belt as 98% of the work is done to change the pump when doing a timing belt, so in general you are mostly paying for the part. The Honda service manual does not recomend that the water pump be replaced with the timing belt and you will not see the water pump replacement in your owners manual (under timing belt replacement, at least it is not in my 2000 Odyssey manual). Another possibility, would happen with any of the three bearing devices mentioned having excessive bearing play/wear, then there could be un-even belt tracking from the excessive bearing wear which might make the timming belt jump a tooth or run off track into a timming belt cover or the engine, again resulting in fairly quick destruction of the belt. So if a water pump, idler pully or adjusting pully were to seize up watch out. But still even with this type of danger a bearing does not just seize up with out some warning (as a general rule). The issue is where a belt travels over a bearing supported surface when the surface stops moving, then the movement of the belt over the non-moving surface builds up heat and is quickly destroyed. If that happens your are (excuse the expression) screwed. As far as your water pump seizing up there is as much danger of that happening as the idler pully or the adjusting pully seizing up. If you do a search on the internet there is good information on water pump failure. In what I have written, all that I'm saying is these are the typical reasons for a water pump change given wear as the major issue. Should you get too bad a feeling about not having changed the water pump then my free advice to you would be while you are in there changing the water pump change the timming belt again, as they say in the forum, cheap insurance. ![]() So while many in the forum would give you a hard time for not changing the water pump (yes I changed mine when I did the timming belt and the tensioner) when doing the timming belt, one could apply the same reasoning and automatically change the timming belt tensioner as well but that is not typically called for. Therefore you would need to again keep a close eye on your coolant level and pay attention to any sounds and changes in sound comming from your engine. If the bearing does go bad then you would get some "play" in the bearing and this will also often result in seal damage and coolent loss (there might also be a "new" whine or squeel that changed pitch with engine RPM). Your biggest danger would be if the bearing goes bad, but again as a general rule they dont go from functional to bad overnight. The bearing is lubracated via your coolant so it is important to keep fresh clean coolant in you cooling system. With either of these you can usually intervine before total failure. Either the seal goes bad and the water pump starts leaking or the bearing goes bad. In general water pumps typically are replaced for one of two reasons. So if you have a leaking fitting then fix it, get your cooling system to leak free (fix any know leak). Any loss of coolant needs to be accounted for. ![]() You should keep your coolant up to a level that is easy to see so you know if coolant is leaking. Your water pump is located where it can not be seen and hence you can not inspect it for leakage and bearing play. So you should watch out for loss of coolant that can not be explained. As a general rule water pumps do not go from "working" fine to total failure without some sort of warning. Instead I will try to give you some insight as to what to watch out for with your water pump. I'll not give you a hard time about you not changing your water pump when you did the timming belt.
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